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Cargo Cult. The new cult rum - Blog post by Thomas Heie Nielsen

Cargo Cult. The new cult rum - Blog post by Thomas Heie Nielsen

Blog post by Thomas Heie Nielsen

I have long had a soft spot for Fijian rum, which I often call "the little Jamaican". It resembles Jamaican rum in its complexity and full flavour, but is not quite as ester-heavy and funky. Fijian rum is pot still distilled from molasses, which gives it a distinctive structure and depth all of its own.

When the Cargo Cult bottle was passed around, the enthusiasm was considerable. The bottle was photographed, selfies were taken, and both the front and back of the label were studied closely. It was clear to most of us that this bottle performs far beyond what the price suggests.

Cargo Cult is a blend of rum from Fiji, Australia (probably Beenleigh) and New Guinea, but the flavour is clearly dominated by the Fijian rum. The sugar cane grows on rich volcanic soil, is hand-harvested and distilled on a pot still before the rum is tropically aged for at least three years.

A new Smith & Cross?

Most rum enthusiasts will know Smith & Cross, a Jamaican rum often compared to Cargo Cult. Smith & Cross is a blend from several undisclosed distilleries in Jamaica, where many mistakenly believe it consists solely of Hampden rum. Listen to our podcast:

In fact Smith & Cross contains rum from several distilleries and sits in the Plummer and Wedderburn categories, meaning it has an ester count of 147 g/hlpa, which places it in the lower part of the Jamaican rum spectrum. Smith & Cross has been on the market since 2009 and is produced by the Dutch importer and distributor E&A Scheer in Amsterdam. The same year, the Hussey family took over Hampden Estate, which they still own and run. Contrary to what many believe, Smith & Cross does not contain only Hampden rum but rum from several different Jamaican distilleries. It is also not a typical high ester rum in the classic Jamaican style.

Holey Dollar: a surprising contender

Another interesting rum worth mentioning is Holey Dollar, a 100% Fijian rum bottled in Australia. This rum is a tribute to the early Australian colonies, where rum was an important trading commodity. Holey Dollar comes in three variants, of which I tasted the Gold Coin at 57.2% alcohol. This rum surprised me with its complex flavour of tropical fruit, spiced pipe tobacco and molasses.

Tasting notes and comparison

Cargo Cult 54.5%: Pale golden straw in colour. The nose offers ripe banana, spice, lacquer, herbs and fresh citrus. The palate is well composed and resembles a light Jamaican rum with a fresh, lightly tart twist.

Holey Dollar 57.2%: Pale brown amber in colour. The nose is full of mild spice, dried fruit, vanilla and butterscotch. The palate is complex with tropical fruit, pipe tobacco and molasses.

Smith & Cross 57%: Pale brown amber (probably with added colour). The nose is classic Jamaican rum, but milder than the Holey Dollar. The palate is complex but not overwhelming, with a characteristic Jamaican tone.

Is Cargo Cult the new Smith & Cross?

It is hard to crown a winner, since each rum has its own qualities. Cargo Cult is a clear winner on price, though, while Holey Dollar is an interesting and charismatic acquaintance that comes warmly recommended. One thing is certain: Smith & Cross should be a permanent part of any drinks cabinet. That is a rule if you want to be a proper rum pirate.

All three rums are excellent both for sipping and for cocktails, and they are perfect in a classic rum and cola too. Enjoy.

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