On a farm in West Dorset the cows stand out on grass, the milk comes in, and the cheese gets made as it always has. What used to run down the drain afterwards now ends up in a bottle. That is the whole story behind Black Cow — and it is every bit as odd as it sounds.
Expert description
Black Cow Pure Milk Vodka is an English Vodka from Black Cow in West Dorset, distilled from whey off grass-grazed cows' milk and bottled at 40%.
The idea turned up in 2011 over a few drinks between two neighbours, one of whom, Jason Barber, is a fifth-generation dairy farmer. A year later the first bottle was ready, and Black Cow became the world's first vodka made purely from milk.
The method follows the dairy. Milk is separated into curds and whey; the curds go to cheese, while the whey — usually a leftover — is set to ferment with a yeast developed specifically to turn milk sugar into alcohol. The resulting "milk beer" is distilled into a neutral spirit, which is then blended by the house's own process, triple filtered and bottled by hand on the farm.
The raw material shows. Lactose ferments differently from the starch in grain or potatoes, and the trace compounds left after distillation pull towards something soft and lightly creamy rather than towards grain sweetness or peppery bite. This is not a vodka that tastes of milk, but nor is it a vodka that tastes like all the others.
Tasting notes
Nose
Soft and faintly sweet, with an impression of whipped cream and a small fresh citrus edge.
Palate
Full and smooth with a clear creaminess that settles like a film across the tongue. The sweetness is mild and carries no sharp edge.
Finish
Clean and soft, medium in length. The creaminess lets go slowly, and a light mineral dryness arrives at the close.
Specifications
Name: Black Cow Pure Milk Vodka
Producer: Black Cow
Region/Country: West Dorset, England
Type: English Vodka
ABV: 40%
Size: 70 CL
Distillation method: Distilled from fermented whey, triple filtered
EAN no.: 5060323760000
Serving suggestion: Neat and properly cold in a small glass, or as the base of an Espresso Martini where the creaminess has a part to play.
Flavour profile
Creamy · Soft · Mild · Round
Did you know?
The herd numbers around 250 cows grazing the fields around the distillery, and every single bottle is filled by hand on the farm itself. It is less than a mile from Jason Barber's dairy to the place where the vodka is made.
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