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Our whisky blogger Jan Autzen tastes Rampur whisky from India

Our whisky blogger Jan Autzen tastes Rampur whisky from India

Post by Jan Autzen Laursen

I am really looking forward to this tasting.
Four interesting samples have landed on my desk from the Indian distillery Rampur. These days the company is called Radico Khaitan Ltd, but the bottles still carry the Rampur name.

Rampur is the fourth largest distillery in India and no small player there, with more than 80 years behind them. They export to over 80 countries, and I have to be honest and say I had not heard of them before.

Indian whisky has always been something special to me. I remember tasting an Amrut at Whiskymessen in Kolding a good few years ago and being completely taken with it - a different flavour from the classic Scotch we know. Complex, interesting and at the same time very different. In the years after that I came across Paul John, which has meant I always keep a bottle around, because it does something you simply do not find in other whiskies.

Now Rampur has arrived and I am going in with high hopes that there is something remarkably good here that will find its way into the drinks cabinets of Danish whisky drinkers. What makes Indian whiskies interesting is that there is no defined minimum maturation age as such. Because of the high temperatures in India, the maturation process in the casks is completely different from what we know in the rather colder north.

Sangam World Malt Whisky 43%
First up is their bottling called Sangam.
As they put it themselves, it is a fusion of the best of the East meeting the expertise of the West.
It has a good, fruity nose, and where I usually find a Speyside whisky smells a bit too floral, here the fruit is simply all-pervading. Apple, pear, apricot - it is just lovely to nose.
The palate is nicely spiced with a small, in fact remarkably small, note of peat. You almost have to be a connoisseur to catch the peat at all. The finish is lovely and fruity but disappears quickly, so it does not hang around long.

I think they are off to a good start, and this is a rather lovely fusion. It comes clearly recommended, and if the others match this quality, well, then Paul John has a companion in the cabinet.

Rampur Select Whisky 2023 Edition 43%
Now we move into their core range and I am starting with Rampur Select. It has matured at the foot of the Himalayas, and specially selected casks form the frame for this whisky.

The nose is spiced and nothing like the fruit notes of the Sangam. There are undertones of vanilla, though I do not get the caramel the distillery describes. A more powerful whisky, there is no doubt about that.

They call the palate a long Indian summer, and what a lovely flavour it has. Fruity and almost mango-like in the finish, and that black pepper turns up again. It lingers in the mouth and is not dry at all.

Rampur Asava 45% Cabernet Sauvignon
And here comes the trouble.
Maybe I am odd, or maybe I have simply not grown into it, but whisky matured in wine casks is a no-go for me. Port bottlings are fine, but everything else in that class can stay outside the door as far as I am concerned.
Others probably know exactly what the appeal is, and I have no doubt some will disagree - and they should. My whisky just should not have been in wine casks. Full stop.

So when I see this bottling is a Cabernet Sauvignon, I am extremely sceptical.
The distillery describes the nose as quite fruity, and here I disagree slightly - although the classic plum and apricot notes are there, so they are not entirely wide of the mark.

The palate is still quite spiced, and vanilla and that oak note turn up again. The reason I am not jumping for joy is a slightly cloying finish I cannot quite explain. Perhaps a bit like a limp liquorice bar that has been left too long in the sun.

I really want to like it, but I have to admit this bottling is the weakest of the collection so far. If you are into wine casks, though, I am quite sure it will NOT disappoint.

Rampur Double Cask Whisky 45%
The last one in the glass is their Double Cask, and here you want to prick up your ears.
Indian whisky in American bourbon casks and finished in European sherry casks. What is not to like, at least on paper.

The nose is lovely and fruity with the classic sherry notes. There is no doubt whatsoever that it has had that finish. Very aromatic and thoroughly fantastic to nose.
The palate is heavenly, delicious and remarkably spiced. The sherry cask does not push through - quite the opposite, it helps the whole complexity along. A long, full finish that warms nicely on the way down. I think this is a remarkably good whisky and I would absolutely recommend it.

Conclusion

I think whisky from places other than Scotland is really starting to move. Japan, Taiwan, India - and our own Danish distilleries - are genuinely showing that proud tradition can be combined with fine craft.
There are so many lovely nuances to go after, and I really feel like someone is trying to spoil us whisky drinkers with an enormous range of flavours.

Rampur is definitely a distillery I would recommend looking into. There is flavour for the money here, and lovely whisky you can sit and enjoy for hours. My own absolute favourite is clearly the Rampur Select, because it just hit something for me.

If you are used to buying the classic Ardbeg, Glenlivet and Laphroaig bottles, I would say buy a Rampur, try it, enjoy it, and see whether it does not shift something for you. I certainly thought it was a remarkably good tasting experience.

Or join the Indian Whisky Tasting on 20 June 2024

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