Dolin Vermouth Rouge France 16%

Above Chambéry the Alps climb steeply, and up among the stones grow hyssop, wormwood and juniper, soaking up the summer sun. Those are the plants that end up in the bottle. Dolin has been gathering them in the same place since 1821.

The expert's description

Dolin Vermouth Rouge is a Red Vermouth from Chambéry in Savoie, built on a white wine base of Ugni Blanc, aromatised with 30 to 40 Alpine botanicals and spices and bottled at 16%.

The house of Dolin has been making vermouth in Chambéry since 1821, and in 1932 the town was granted France's only appellation for vermouth. Dolin is today the last independent producer of Vermouth de Chambéry, and the recipe has stayed inside the family for two centuries.

The method sets it apart from the big commercial brands. Where many steep their botanicals in neutral spirit and blend the extract in afterwards, Dolin lays the plants straight into the relatively neutral white wine and leaves them for several weeks. Only then comes the sugar, and finally a grape spirit that locks the aromatics in place. Coriander, hyssop, rhubarb and curaçao are among the botanicals the house will admit to. The rest they keep to themselves.

The colour does not come from red wine, as many assume, but from the plants and from caramelised sugar. That is part of why the Rouge is lighter and drier than the sweet Italian styles. There is sweetness, but it is restrained, and a quiet bitterness from the base wine sits underneath it. When importer Haus Alpenz reintroduced Dolin to the American market in 2009, the bottle quickly became a fixture on the back bar, and it remains the default pour for a Manhattan among a great many bartenders.

Tasting notes

Nose

Coppery in the glass. Stewed fruit, prunes and walnut, with dried grass behind it and a peppery edge leaning towards Szechuan pepper.

Palate

Almond, pear and citrus peel first, then cinnamon and gingerbread. The sweetness is subdued and kept in check throughout by something herbal and bitter, hyssop and oregano.

Finish

Medium and dry. Tobacco, orange peel and a clean bitterness that makes this a bottle for mixing rather than a dessert wine.

Specifications

Name: Dolin Vermouth Rouge
Producer: Dolin
Region/Country: Chambéry, Savoie, France
Type: Red Vermouth
ABV: 16%
Size: 75 CL
Grape: Ugni Blanc
Serving suggestion: Chilled over ice with a slice of orange, or in a Negroni or Manhattan

Flavour profile

Herbal · Fruity · Spiced · Lightly bitter · Floral

Did you know?

Dolin also makes Chambéryzette, a vermouth aromatised with wild strawberries from Savoie, which the house dreamed up in the 1930s. And Génépi, the liqueur built on the Alpine herb of the same name, still the local answer to a cold evening in the mountains.

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Frequently asked questions about Dolin Vermouth Rouge

What does Dolin Vermouth Rouge taste like?

Dark dried fruit, almond and spice, with restrained sweetness and a herbal bitterness underneath. Prunes, walnut, cinnamon and orange peel are the clearest notes, and the finish is drier than most sweet Italian vermouths.

What is the difference between Dolin Vermouth Rouge and Italian sweet vermouth?

Dolin is lighter, drier and less sugary. The Italian rossi are usually bigger on sweetness and more caramelised, while Dolin holds on to its botanicals and the bitterness of the base wine. That makes it far more useful when you don't want the vermouth shouting over the gin or the whisky. Browse the full range of Red Vermouth.

Which cocktails is Dolin Vermouth Rouge used in?

The Negroni and the Manhattan are the classics. It also works in an Americano, a Boulevardier, a Rob Roy and a Hanky Panky. Because it is drier than the Italian styles, you can often push the measure up a little without the drink turning cloying.

Can you drink Dolin Vermouth Rouge on its own?

Yes, and that is how it is drunk in France. Chilled over ice with a slice of orange, as an aperitif before dinner. A low tumbler or an ordinary wine glass will do, but a proper cocktail glass does something for the aromatics.

How long does an opened bottle of Dolin Vermouth Rouge keep?

Put it in the fridge once opened. Vermouth is wine, not spirit, and it oxidises. Kept cold it will usually stay fresh for six to eight weeks. Unopened, it will sit happily for years somewhere dark and cool.

What food goes with Dolin Vermouth Rouge?

Salty, fatty things. Olives, salted almonds, cured sausage and ham, hard cheeses such as comté or beaufort from the same corner of France. The bitterness cuts through the fat, and the botanicals follow charcuterie well.

What does Vermouth de Chambéry mean?

It is a protected origin designation the town of Chambéry was granted in 1932, the only one of its kind for vermouth in France. It sets rules for where production happens and how it is done. Dolin is the last independent producer still working under it.